Andy king delivers the second half to his guide for ICM’s OV-10D+ Bronco 1/72nd Scale. He shows us today the weathering & finishing, as well as painting of this model. You can see how he completed it in Part 2. Check it out at the link above…
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Today: Build review Pt.I: OV-10D+ Bronco from ICM in 1/72nd scale Check it out at the link above…
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Today: Build review Pt.I: OV-10D+ Bronco from ICM in 1/72nd scale
With the build done and the canopy and wheel wells masked, the model got a primer coat of matt black from a rattle can. The real aircraft that was used to create this model is a Marine OV-10D+, No# 155473, from VMO 2 based at Saudi Arabia in 1991. The underside was then masking and top colors were sprayed. I started with FS30279 which is the lightest colour. For this, Mr. Hobby Aqueous h346 had been purchased. It was the closest match but labelled as ‘Rough Sand’ which I thought was odd; however, when I started spraying it, the colour lived up to its name as it was full of grit and completely blocked the airbrush.
Needing grit-free paint ASAP I had a scout around the internet and found a match for FS30279, which consisted of six parts (all Tamiya) XF-57 Buff, nine parts XF-72 JGSDF Brown, six parts X-17 Pink and fourteen parts XF-19 Sky Grey. The paint between the panels was also lightened using Tamiya LP-4 Flat White. The upper surfaces of the model were masked, and sprayed using Mr Hobby H310 FS30219. I use gloss varnish on all of my models to help decals adhere and make weathering easier. Your mileage may differ. The model received another coat of X-22, which sealed the decals, and was then left to dry. When it was ready, the under surfaces had Paynes Grey oil colour brushed into the panel lines and wiped off with a paper kitchen towel.
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All flying surfaces had Sepia oil paint washed into the gaps just to give some demarcation.
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Again, the model was left to dry, then it was sprayed with VMS Satin varnish.
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VMS varnish gives a model a lovely sheen that’s not too glossy or flat. I let it dry for about a week as varnish doesn’t want to be handled right away. Then I painted the last details like the FLIR Turret and the IR “disco” light on top. The VMS varnish was cured and it was now time to fix the tails booms. It would have made it difficult to paint with the tail booms attached, but fitting them was no less awkward. It worked well for the tail-booms, but I had to use superglue around the engine areas. The model is not perfect but it’s better.
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The final details were glued into place with a new nose pitot tube made from plastic rod and an acupuncture needle for the pointy end.
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With that, the model was finished.
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That was an enjoyable build, and although there were a couple of niggles during assembly, it built up quite well. It was difficult to paint the tail booms and fuselage joint, however, I chose to leave them as they were. I am wondering how long it will be before the metal parts are needed.